Founded by Richard Stark, Chrome Hearts has long been one of fashion's best-kept secrets. However, its popularity has surged in recent years.
Starting in the 1980's, Chrome Hearts began as Stark's passion project, influenced by LA's biker culture. Initially crafting custom leather pieces and silver accessories, Stark’s unique designs quickly gained attention. The brand's distinctive aesthetic, intricate silver work, and bold leather goods cultivated a cult following.
Despite its underground beginnings, Chrome Hearts expanded globally, opening boutiques and collaborating with top designers and celebrities. The brand's commitment to craftsmanship and exclusivity remains unchanged, with each piece handcrafted in its Hollywood factory.
Today, Chrome Hearts is celebrated worldwide, its iconic designs appearing on everything from clothing to eyewear. The brand's journey from niche biker brand to fashion powerhouse highlights its enduring appeal and quality.
Now is the perfect time to explore the fascinating history of Chrome Hearts and how it became the influential brand it is today.
In the late 1980s, Richard Stark, a premium leather dealer in Los Angeles, teamed up with his friend John Bowman, a leather manufacturer, both deeply embedded in motorcycle culture. Inspired by their passion, they decided to create leather jackets for themselves and their friends. Starting in a garage, they began producing gear, gradually evolving into a small-scale leather manufacturing company.
Stark and Bowman were later joined by Leonard Kamhout, a skilled jeweler known for his expertise in sterling silver—a material that would become integral to Chrome Hearts' identity. At this initial stage, they were not yet operating as a formal brand and lacked a distinct name, focusing instead on crafting custom pieces for clients.
Everything changed in 1989 when they were approached to design wardrobe pieces for a low-budget comedy horror film titled "Chromeheart." This opportunity sparked the inception of their brand name, Chrome Hearts, which has since become synonymous with their unique style and craftsmanship.
Chromehearts was just a working title for the film during the casting stage and it would later be renamed to "Chopper Chicks in Zombie Town". (we know what you are thinking, they nailed it)
The film not only inspired their brand name but also presented new opportunities. One of the film's lead actresses was dating Steve Jones of the Sex Pistols, who became an immediate fan of Chrome Hearts' designs. Jones commissioned them to create pieces for him, and when he began wearing their creations on stage, the brand gained significant visibility and began to attract a following.
The growing demand prompted Stark, Bowman, and Kamhout to establish a proper production facility in Los Angeles, fueled in part by the exposure from Steve Jones. Chrome Hearts quickly gained popularity within the rock and roll community, with early adopters including iconic musicians like Lenny Kravitz, Motley Crue, and Guns N' Roses.
As legendary as these customers were, perhaps none were as pivotal as Lori Lynn. She was working as an art director when she crossed paths with Richard at a fish market in Malibu. Their collaboration on a swimwear line she was developing quickly evolved, and within a few months, they were happily married.
Lori Lynn's entry into Chrome Hearts marked a significant turning point for the brand. She assumed roles in marketing, and photography, and spearheaded the introduction of ready-to-wear collections. Her efforts expanded Chrome Hearts' appeal to a broader audience, marking a transformative period for the brand.
This marked the beginning of Chrome Hearts as we recognize it today. Originally founded by Richard Stark, John Bowman, and Leonard Kamut, the brand was gaining momentum. However, for reasons that remain unclear, the trio decided to part ways in 1991, with Richard Stark acquiring their shares and becoming the sole owner.
Richard had always been the driving force behind Chrome Hearts, and this change allowed him greater freedom to shape the brand according to his vision. And that's exactly what he did.
From 1991 onward, Chrome Hearts persisted in crafting leather goods and sterling silver jewelry. Leveraging his background as a high-end carpenter, Stark ventured into furniture and home goods, broadening the brand's offerings. Meanwhile, Lori Lynn remained at the helm, overseeing the design of garments, accessories, and Chrome Hearts magazine.
We highly recommend checking out some of the Chrome Hearts magazines because Lori Lynn's photography skillfully captures the essence of the Chrome Hearts vibe. At this stage, Chrome Hearts was truly taking form, primarily catering to the grungy rock and roll biker demographic, a niche it continues to serve today. Nevertheless, Chrome Hearts has since gained widespread recognition beyond its original audience.
The transition from cult favorite to world-famous for Chrome Hearts began when Richard Stark brought a motorcycle jacket and pair of chaps to Tommy Perse, founder and creative director of the iconic LA-based boutique Maxfield, in 1991. Perse liked Chrome Hearts enough to stock some of their pieces at Maxfield, a crucial move because Maxfield is open to the general public and boasts a clientele that includes celebrities beyond just rock and roll stars. This exposure at Maxfield helped Chrome Hearts gain broader visibility and appeal.
This led to a significant surge in popularity, with Chrome Hearts soon being stocked at prestigious locations like Bergdorf Goodman and featured in Vogue campaigns. Chrome Hearts was now gaining mainstream recognition and on the verge of another major breakthrough.
In 1992, Richard Stark received a phone call from the Council of Fashion Designers of America informing him that he had won the award for Best Accessories Designer. For anyone familiar with American fashion, winning a CFDA prize is a highly esteemed honor.
However, Richard Stark doesn't identify himself as a fashion designer; he sees himself more as a craftsman. So, when he received the call, he didn't recognize the CFDA and mistook it for a telemarketing call. Richard amusingly recalls that the CFDA asked him to choose a celebrity to present the award to him.
He had someone specific in mind but refused to disclose the name to the CFDA.
And he told them that if they didn't trust him, they should hire their own backup.
As we now know, Richard picked pop icon Cher to present the award, saying, "I think she's extremely talented."
Richard Stark, despite his initial indifference towards the award, now acknowledges its pivotal role in catapulting Chrome Hearts into the spotlight. Winning the CFDA prize brought significant attention to the brand, attracting new admirers including influential designers like Rei Kawakubo, the visionary behind Comme des Garçons and Dover Street Market. With Kawakubo's support, Chrome Hearts successfully entered the Japanese fashion market, igniting widespread popularity across Asia and paving the way for further growth.
Simultaneously, Chrome Hearts was booming in America, with strong sales at Maxfield prompting Tommy Perse to assist the Starks in opening their own boutique nearby. Their expansion continued with the launch of a New York City store in 1996 and a Tokyo location in 1999. Despite rapid growth and increasing popularity, Chrome Hearts maintained its unique allure and craftsmanship.
Richard and Lori Lynn Stark have always maintained a tight grip on Chrome Hearts, ensuring that their design ethos remains uncompromised. Unlike many fashion houses, they have steadfastly avoided the pressure to conform to seasonal collections and have been selective about their collaborations, working only with those they truly admire.
This steadfast approach has kept Chrome Hearts true to its roots over the past three decades. This consistency, I believe, is a key factor in its enduring success. Few brands have achieved such a distinct design identity, centered around leather, silver, stylized crosses, and an old English font. This formula has not only defined Chrome Hearts but has also contributed to its iconic status in the fashion world.
Having a distinctive design language is crucial for a brand like Chrome Hearts. It sets them apart from countless other brands inspired by grunge aesthetics. Given their extensive custom work, signature design elements are essential for ensuring their creations are instantly recognizable. Chrome Hearts has indeed mastered its own unique style, which makes their collaborations particularly intriguing.
Richard Stark himself prefers not to use the term "collaboration" in the conventional sense. For him, these projects are opportunities to collaborate with individuals he genuinely respects and wants to work with, on projects that truly inspire him. In recent years, the term "collaboration" has taken on a commercialized meaning that doesn't fully align with Chrome Hearts' authentic approach.
So for this editorial, let's adopt Richard Stark's perspective on collaborations. Beyond the spontaneous partnerships with iconic rock bands mentioned earlier, one of Chrome Hearts' earliest significant collaborations occurred with the Rolling Stones in 2002. Despite their deep ties to the rock and roll scene by then, the Starks had surprisingly never met any members of the Rolling Stones when they agreed to create tour gear for the band. This collaboration included a diamond-studded belt shaped like the band's iconic logo, specifically crafted for Mick Jagger.
In 2004, Chrome Hearts expanded its presence in the fashion industry by teaming up with Yves Saint Laurent to launch TV T-shirts. This marked a notable step beyond their rock and roll roots.
Subsequently, they collaborated with Comme des Garçons in 2007 and Rick Owens in 2010. In 2014, their collaborations extended to Gareth Pugh and Carson McColl, followed by a partnership with Virgil Abloh's Off-White in 2015.
Richard Stark and Virgil Abloh have since developed a close working relationship, collaborating on several projects.
It's fascinating how Chrome Hearts has collaborated with major players in luxury fashion, dark fashion, and streetwear, solidifying its presence across diverse styles. They've also partnered with longtime customer and family friend Bella Hadid on multiple occasions. These collaborations, alongside their extensive custom work for countless celebrities, contribute to the brand's ongoing expansion.
Looking ahead, Richard and Lori Lynn Stark are strategically positioning Chrome Hearts for long-term success.
Chrome Hearts operates out of a 250,000 sqft headquarters spanning three blocks in Hollywood. This expansive space houses a fully equipped furniture workshop, gold and silversmithing stations, and printing facilities—essentially everything needed for in-house production. Unlike many brands that outsource production, Chrome Hearts maintains full control over its manufacturing process, showcasing its commitment to quality and craftsmanship.
In a strategic move in 2014, Starks acquired a minority stake in Elder Statesman, a luxury cashmere knitwear label that had previously won the prestigious 2012 CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund award.
Again, this underscores the Starks' ongoing commitment to expanding and evolving their business. A crucial aspect of Chrome Hearts' future is its identity as a family business. Led by husband-and-wife Richard and Lori Lynn Stark, the company now sees their three children actively participating. Alongside Richard and Lori Lynn are their son, Christian Stark, and daughters Frankie Bell Stark and Jessie Jo Stark.
As the oldest, Jessie Jo has significantly shaped Chrome Hearts' current popularity. Serving as the vice president, she has been instrumental in steering the brand's creative vision, enhancing its social media influence, and forging partnerships, including with her close friend Bella Hadid. Beyond her business acumen and fashion sense, Jessie Jo is also a talented singer and songwriter, making her work worth exploring. Additionally, it was Jessie Jo who introduced her former boyfriend, Matt Di Giacomo, to the brand.
If you're familiar with Chrome Hearts, you'll likely know him as Matty Boy, and you've probably come across some of his designs. As the current artistic director, he has brought a distinctive touch to Chrome Hearts' clothing line, which has resonated strongly, especially with streetwear enthusiasts.
Beyond Matty Boy's contributions, Christian and Frankie Bell, the twins, are also making their marks in the fashion world. Christian manages an environmentally conscious brand called Thrilltrip, while Frankie Bell heads a swimwear line known as Dipped in Blue. These ventures highlight their innovative approach to fashion, and you can explore their projects through the links provided in the description.
Overall, it's fascinating to see the entire Stark family deeply involved in steering Chrome Hearts, underscoring their commitment to its enduring presence. With style ingrained in their family dynamic, Chrome Hearts seems poised for a lasting legacy.
It is also important to emphasize that Chrome Hearts stands out uniquely in the fashion landscape—it's more than just a fashion brand; it embodies a lifestyle.
The Starks' mastery of design and craftsmanship extends across all endeavors. Remarkably, Chrome Hearts has achieved all this without a major e-commerce presence, demonstrating the strength of its dedicated following. At a time when many brands are scaling back physical stores, Chrome Hearts continues to expand year after year.
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